Retinol/retinal - love retinoids

Vitamin of Youth

They have been intensively researched for over 40 years, and the conclusion from these studies is clear—embrace them, as they will solve many of your skin problems.

Retinoids are powerful anti-aging ingredients used in the care of not just facial skin but the entire body. They are derivatives of vitamin A, known as the vitamin of youth. They have the ability to dissolve in fats, which allows them to penetrate deeper layers of the skin, making them effective and multifaceted.

The two main types of active retinoid ingredients are retinol and retinal, which differ in how they convert to retinoic acid. Retinol takes more time to convert into the active form, thus acting slower on the skin and requiring higher concentrations. Retinal activates faster, thus acting quicker at lower concentrations.

Benefits of Retinol/Retinal

Regular use in the form of micro-dosed retinoids with delayed release can bring spectacular benefits to the skin.

First, it improves skin texture and quality:
- Acts as an antioxidant
- Has anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties
- Exfoliates the epidermis, regulating its renewal processes
- Improves skin density and elasticity
- Reduces discolorations
- Evens out skin tone
- Decreases the visibility of scars
- Normalizes sebum production

Second, it has anti-aging effects:
- Increases collagen production, leading to smoother skin
- Reduces wrinkles
- Enhances skin nourishment and oxygenation

Who Can Use It - Contraindications

Practically everyone, starting from 25 years old when collagen levels in the skin begin to decrease. However, contraindications include:
- Pregnancy
- Active inflammatory skin conditions (e.g., rosacea, eczema, psoriasis)
- Autoimmune skin diseases—in some autoimmune conditions like lupus erythematosus, using retinol may be inadvisable—in such cases, consult a dermatologist
- Allergy to retinoids
When to Wait Before Using Retinoids
- If your skin is tanned!!! Wait until the tan completely fades away, revealing the true state of the skin, sun damage, discolorations, etc.
- If your skin feels tight after washing or is red.
- If you have undergone dermatological or aesthetic treatments. After treatments like chemical peels, microdermabrasion, or laser therapy, the skin needs time to heal. Using retinol/retinal right after such procedures can lead to severe irritation and delay healing.
- If you are using other irritating active substances. Retinol/retinal should not be combined with strong acids (AHA, BHA) or vitamin C-based products, as this can lead to irritation and excessive exfoliation.

Application Rules

1. Start slowly, once a week for the first 2 weeks.
2. Begin with a low concentration—you'll see benefits even from low concentrations if you are consistent. Start with a maximum of 0.3% retinol, 0.01-0.05% retinal.
3. If you are using acids, the rule is to apply retinol/retinal first, then the acids. So if you are using acids, stop, introduce retinol, build tolerance, then reintroduce acids.
4. Gradually increase frequency; after 2 weeks, increase application to twice a week. In my opinion, this is the maximum frequency. Three times a week is really the max.
5. Maximum safe concentration is 1% for retinol, 0.1% for retinal—try not to exceed it.
6. Retinol/retinal is not a sprint; it's a marathon. Don't rush.
7. Consistency at low doses is better than inconsistency.
8. Use only at night. Retinoids are sensitive to light; exposure to light can deactivate them. Retinol/retinal makes the skin more sensitive to UV rays. Sun exposure during retinoid use can make the skin more sensitive and result in discolorations.
9. Retinol/retinal has a drying effect. Use moisturizers on non-application days—sheet masks, serums, creams.
10. Always use sunscreen. Building a skincare routine without sunscreen is pointless.
11. Maintain consistency. Use regularly.
12. Slowly and systematically, you'll win the race.
13. Be patient. Skincare is not a game for immediate gratification.
14. Expect results after a minimum of 3 months of use. The first effect is a change in skin tone.
15. Around 6 months of regular use leads to skin thickening.
16. Use around the eye area, but carefully—not too close—top and bottom, avoiding the corners of the eyes. Use the same cream as for the face.
17. NEVER use in the morning—even if the manufacturer says you can.
18. Don't use with active substances in the same skincare routine like vitamin C, glycolic acid, niacinamide.
19. Do not use during pregnancy.
20. Avoid using simultaneously with salon treatments. Stop use about 7 days before a treatment.
21. Don't use too much. In this case, more is not better. Use sparingly, as if you might run out. As if it’s your last bottle unavailable again on the market.
22. High doses of retinol/retinal can lead to more complications and skin irritation.
23. Don't give up—even if you see your skin’s condition deteriorating. Don’t be like 90% of others.
24. Each time you stop using the product, you'll need to rebuild tolerance.
25. Using retinol/retinal on the hands—on the back of the hands can help improve skin appearance; however, exercise caution if using UV lamps during hybrid manicures. Retinol increases skin sensitivity to UV radiation, meaning exposure during UV lamp use can lead to irritations or skin discolorations. Skin could become darker or more prone to pigmentation spots. To avoid issues, it’s recommended to apply high SPF cream on hands before placing them under UV lamp. Alternatively, consider wearing protective gloves with exposed fingertips during manicures to minimize UV exposure to the skin.
26. Don’t experiment with products. Finish one product before buying another. Don’t stockpile. It’s better to use a lower concentration year-round than to jump to higher concentrations and end up with irritations. If you really want to "jump" to a higher concentration, leave the product for the neck, décolletage, or hands.
27. When using retinoids don't cleanse aggressively. Limit face washing to 20-30 seconds, which is sufficient for one step.
28. As you know, for me, the face ends below the bust. Therefore, products can and should be used on those areas. If you’ve been using a lower concentration for some time and want to transition to a higher one, you can leave the lower concentration for the neck and décolletage. Don’t skip the eye area, only the lower lid. Avoid the upper lid.
29. If planning a vacation where sun exposure is unavoidable, like the beach, stop the retinoid product approximately 1.5-2 weeks prior. Then return to use, but gradually, up to a maximum of twice a week.

Summary – Remember

- Start slowly
- Apply at night, not in the morning
- Use around eyes, neck, décolletage, and back of hands
- Use with moisturizer
- Apply sunscreen in the morning
- Do not combine with vitamin C (retinol/retinal at night, vitamin C in the morning)
- Don’t use during pregnancy
- Don’t mix with skin treatments
- Don’t apply too much—save the product (consistency is key)
- Be consistent
- Be patient (at least 3 months)
- Don’t stop using
- If you stop, restart the cycle

Retinoids are wonderful…I wholeheartedly recommend them…